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The first time I went to Croatia was in 2017. I was on a week-long winter break trip before I would return to London to start my final semester of university. My friend and I stayed in the capital, Zagreb. We hiked through snow-capped trees, went to markets in the city center, and even took a day trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia’s largest national park and a UNESCO site. After that trip, I knew I had to visit the country again.
This time around I wanted to visit in the summer. I knew the energy would be different, but if it was anything like my trip in 2017, then I was going to have a good time. Between Split and Dubrovnik, two of the most popular tourist destinations, my first choice was Split. Although both are crowded in the summer, I assumed Split would be slightly more manageable given its Old Town is small and easy to walk, especially as I only had 48 hours in the city—just enough time to get a little taste.
When deciding where to stay, proximity to Old Town was a top priority. I didn’t want to be too far from the city and have to pay for taxis or figure out the bus system. That’s when I came across Mezzanin&Pol. Located at the foot of Marjan Hill, the apartment complex was on the second floor. After using the provided code to open the front door and carrying my suitcase up the flight of stairs, I was greeted by my host, Natasa, in a beautifully decorated one-bedroom apartment.
From the start, I had a good feeling about this place. Natasa was completely responsive to me days before the trip. From clarifying information to letting me know when she would be at the apartment to greet me and sending directions to reach the building, she was always available when I needed her. But it was the space that really captivated me: I had so much room to move around, from the inviting entryway to the bedroom with a wardrobe, side table, lounge chair, and even a luggage rack (I don’t put my suitcase on the bed because…germs), to the two separate balconies to the dining room where Natasa provided domestic peaches for me to try.
The room felt classy and a touch nautical. Black and white photos of Croatia lined the walls of the bedroom and in the kitchen, there were images of cameras and a clapperboard that film directors use to mark the end of a scene. The tones of the rooms were soothing, mostly a light gray and blue with a touch of rust. In the living room, there was a table filled with maps of Split, a Lonely Planet guidebook, and a reference for luggage storage, should guests need it. She even provided beach towels, a bath mat, a placard with the rules of the apartment in English, German, Croatian, and Polish, and a deadbolt on the apartment door. I felt very safe, even as a solo traveler.
After days of walking over 20,000 steps, I easily sank into the king-size bed; thanks to the blackout curtains, I wasn’t woken up by the bright sunlight that shone in from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the apartment. In the morning, I headed for the shower. It had two doors that pull together to close as you step inside; I felt like I was stepping inside a time capsule, but the amazing water pressure made me feel like I was at a spa instead.
The Airbnb is an easy 20-minute walk from the main bus station that can take you to and from the airport or to other cities in Croatia. It is also only a 10-minute walk into Old Town. Right across the street is a cafe and a grocery store, and there's a nearby playground. Not only is it convenient, it's also quiet. All in all, it's a perfect location—you feel like you're where the locals are, but also not far from the tourists.
After getting my bearings, I easily found myself in the middle of all the action. Bars and restaurants lined the harbor, tattoos shops were lit up, and Roman ruins could be seen everywhere as you walk in and out of Diocletian's Palace, an ancient Roman palace built between 295 and 305 CE which forms about half the Old Town of Split and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The palace is even where some key Game of Thrones scenes were filmed.
My favorite restaurant on the trip was Pandora Greenbox. Completely vegan but so filling, it's a 10-minute walk from the apartment and serves delicious hummus with mushrooms, tomatoes, potatoes, and olive oil bread to sop it all up. A visit to Trogir, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a 40-minute drive away. The town is known for its mix of renaissance, baroque, and Romanesque buildings, and parts of the medieval city walls remain intact.
Although my time in Split was short, it was memorable, including one particular moment when my host and I had to break into my suitcase when I had the wrong key to the TSA lock. Regardless, I couldn’t have asked for a better place to spend my morning and evenings than at Natasa's. While I didn’t know what to expect from my time in Split, I would return in a heartbeat. In the meantime, you’ll find me back at home, on the couch, savoring the Bajadera chocolates Natasa sent me off with.
